Old Delhi - a web of history, culture and chaos.
The first time I threw myself into Old Delhi, I wanted to turn around and leave straight away, it is crazy, you just don’t know which way to turn and could easily get lost in there for what could feel like forever. That was years ago and I’ve been back in many times and for the first time have some confidence to write about it, because this time I had with me in tow, two brave 18 year old girls who both put their hands up to say I want to go to India with you.
Well done to them for having trust in me (thank you) and also showing up to try something new. Two strong traits to carry forward, trust in the unknown and setting aside time to try new adventures.
The Delhi Perspective
Just to put things into perspective, the population of Delhi is equivalent to the whole of Australia and 75% of Delhi retail activity is transacted in Old Delhi, that shows the amount of exchanges which take place per minute of each day.
You can feel the healthy business activity in every shop, and the proof is in the tuk-tuk and rickshaw loads of bags, cardboard boxes and anything else that can be turned into a makeshift carry bag, being wheeled, pulled or dragged through the crowded streets back to their homes, showrooms or offices. You definitely move out of the way when a loaded rickshaw is trying to squeeze past you, I always make sure my toes are out of the way.
This is also an area where religion can harmoniously co-exist, each have their custom places of worship sitting side by side, respectful of beliefs. Visitors are welcome and it is an experience to try, leaving the crazy street to walk into a temple or mosque, barefoot and to feel the softness of the carpet underneath your foot. It’s a moment of rest for the tired traveller’s foot. The chanting and music is strangely soothing from the constant tooting and hooting outside on the street. I love this part of the Indian culture; the extremes are real.
If you are looking for any of the following, Old Delhi is the main source of, silver jewellery, every spice available and all are shipped around the world, every trim you could possibly imagine is hanging bright to entice you into their store, be prepared for colour overload
A manageable walking radius outside the main part of the Old Delhi surrounds, there are momentums which show a mixture of Islamic and Hindi architecture with scriptures showing the history. Here are a few that we visited and are worth seeing and hearing about.
1. Qutub Minar Complex - Qutub Minar, Iltutmish's Tomb, Allauddin Khilji's Madrasa (Islamic schools of learning), Tomb of Imam Zamin (the Sufi Saint) - These were all built between the 13th-15th centuries by kings from Delhi Sultanate
2. Mehrauli Archaeological Park - Balban's tomb, Jamli Kamli Mosque, Rajon ki Baoli (Stepwell) - These were all built between the 13th-15th centuries by kings from Delhi Sultanate
3. Old Delhi - Walls of Red fort, Sisganj Sahib Gurudwara, Dariba Kalan (Jewellery market), Kinari bazaar (border and frills market), Naugarha (the 9 havelis built by the Jain traders), Ghalib's home (the 19th century Urdu Poet), Haveli Dharampura (Restored 1877 haveli with restaurant and Kite flying)
Walking through the streets of Old Delhi is like being on a mega blockbuster movie set, not that I’ve been on one but can imagine it’s like that. Trying to leave Old Delhi in a tuk tuk is an experience which needs to be felt once in a lifetime, just hold on is all I can suggest and don’t face forward, it’s better to be looking out the back red plastic window, so you can’t see the traffic coming for you. It’s not that scary.
It is endless, the original residential streets, with their painted framed doorways is the perfect setting for a group photo. The original Haveli’s are now being restored and transformed into restaurants and guesthouses.
At the end of the day, as the dusty sunset starts to illuminate the horizon, you can do kite flying from the rooftops of the Haveli, and play let’s catch the other persons kite and cut the cord, this is fun. Even though I was nervous watching the little boy running on a neighbouring roof.
As we walked home that night, we saw one of the cut lose kites flying high in the Delhi sky.
Old Delhi I will never tire of, it’s the best place to get the true vibe of what it’s really like to experience a living history, functioning and sustainable business activity, culture that is alive and kicking, religion burning bright. I love the cultural traditions and the people watching, I’m so grateful to be able to go to a place that hasn’t changed over the years, but it just keeps adding about electrical wire on top of the thousands hanging lose, to make everything work.
love Emma
