Benaras - older than history, older than tradition, older than culture

When I jumped in to start these trips, not only was it a way to share the travel bug, it was also a way to unite us and to have experiences that bring us together as people. I didn’t realise how much it would stretch me, at the same time fulfil me by witnessing the unity and bonding between strangers first hand.

On this round the globe trip through India, I wanted to push the boundaries just a little further, break the chain of routine and see what happens. I’d found a flow on the first couple, it was time to explore further afield, go a bit beyond by adding in a fourth city, Benaras.

I had the crew alongside me to test this with, 4 cities in 10 days, not a problem, lets go. When you stretch a little further and leave it open to new experiences it’s amazing the laughter, joy and memories that are created, this can’t be planned, I love this part and relieved to say the others did to. This trip reminded me of the time I made my way from London to Austria, across Europe, train hopping with my beautiful Nat, having all the trust in the world that things would work out just fine. This still exists, exactly the same feelings are happening on these trips, locals have entertained, guided and fed us along the way. The level of human kindness being shown to our travelling gangs is heart-warming, thank you.

Being open and ready for new adventures, we took off from Udaipur at 11 pm one night, to be rocked to sleep in a 6 person cabin. Arriving into Agra at 11 am the next day, after many cups of Chai tea. In the morning the tea man, wakes you up by walking down the aisles singing, chai, chai, chai, who couldn’t resist? Not me I’ll grab another one.

The second train trip was Delhi to Varansai, we took off at 6.50 pm and arrived into Benaras the next day at 7.30 am, again lots of tea, but this time we had traditional Indian food on our laps, as the train rocked along the tracks. It was the best “dinner on your lap” type of night. We laughed so much on these train trips, proven it will now be an essential part of every future trip.

In each of the cities we’ve been visiting, we have now made friends with some of the locals. This has been one of the important drivers for me, to connect to people who are living well in their local communities. I’ve been feeling strongly about showing the good stuff out there, we need to hear and see from more local storytellers, peacemakers, lovers of every sort, to share their interests with the visitors that come through.

Some locals we have meet are bold enough to be redefining success and what it looks like and it has nothing to do with money, what they own or who they know. It’s about who they are and what they are doing to make this planet a better place. This has been inspiring and making me more focused to grow this community platform to showcase these amazing people, places and nature that we have on this planet. If we choose to look for what brings us together, we find it.

Travelling gives you a different kind of growth, sometimes I think it is because we are holding onto habits and when you do something completely different your mind has to change the way it processes information, and this forces you to grow.

We had been on the go for 6 days, but it felt like we had been travelling for weeks, even my heart and head were getting full. But as we left Benaras the city of lights, we had been infected by a new strain of the travel love bug.

Here is a brief outline of what we managed to cover in 36 hours after being bombarded by at least 15 taxi drivers early on the arrival morning, me trying to negotiate a price to the hotel was interesting.

We kicked off visiting Sarnath, the archaeological site where Buddha practised his first sermon, as you entered this area you can instantly feel the peacefulness, his ashes are buried there. His story is fascinating and we listened to this as we walked around the grounds, imagining what it would have been like for his disciples to mediate for hours on end in these tiny red brick cubicles. Seeking enlightenment by going within, these cubicles inside the monastery were just the size to hold a small group. A gorgeous deer sanctuary sits at the back of the property, adds to the serenity,

We then caught rickshaws to our next spot, it was like a rickshaw drag race as we took off down hill, flying down one of the main streets of Benaras, we lost each other for a bit as one of the rickshaws went faster. Note : always share the address of next meeting spot.. When the rickshaws couldn’t go any further, we started walking through the old streets, alleyways of colourful doorways each holding unique businesses, filled with artisans, craftsmen, and sales people.

The iPhone camera was having alot of fun taking these pictures, while trying to avoid getting run over by a modern day moped. Why are some people in such a rush and can we please just stop peeping the horns for a couple of minutes to enjoy the space. That’s my tourist feedback.

My new favourite blue colour is called Nall, it’s a mixture of Indigo and limestone and painted on many walls around the city, I’ve just added it into the next collection, you’ll see me modelling this somewhere along the lines on the next destination.

Religion, heritage and culture, is alive and ingrained into every brick, all in its original state and covered with many layers of paint. After a windy walk we arrive at a dark entrance, one I could never find again, maybe because I was behind the iPhone camera trying to capture every colour, on every wall. We knocked on the door and step into an old city garden of peace, we’ve reached our lunch destination. A 300 year old heritage Haveli, the residence of a famous Hindi writer, poet and playwriter, Bhartendu Harishchandra (you probably haven’t heard of him, but he is famous here) Standing there, for one moment I couldn’t hear any horns peeping.

We sit in the garden under a white wooden canopy of vines and lamps, the pet parrot keeping us company. We are served a traditional Indian lunch of Dahl, Batti, Chokha, Churma, Laddu, and rice, plus Chai tea to wash it down. Those burnt buns in the picture were cooked for 2 hours on the coals. It is a damper filled with lentils, herbs and spices, coated in ghee. I had 2, which was 1 too many, but had to make the most of it while we were there for a short time. They were so tasty, in a strange bbq’d vegemite sort of way. This place was a highlight, and I’ll make sure I can find it again.

After lunch we start walking towards the River Ganges, I’m holding my breathe, there is something about the Ganges which I find magical, it is such a strong, but calm river. The Ganges has 84 stairway entry points, called ghats, we find our boat, which is painted our new favourite colour of blue (yay the photos are going to be amazing), we hop on our boat and drift off into the middle of the Ganges River and look back onto Benaras, this is incredible India folks, soak it up. Each city true to it’s nature.

We watch the sunset, which could nearly beat the Straddie sunset, and see people starting to gather for the evening Aarti, an evening ceremony performed every night and morning regardless of weather, a ceremony thanking the River Goddess for the day, showing gratitude, can this city even get more glorious. I say quietly to myself, love you River Goddess.

This evening we floated around the River Ganges watching the religious ceremonies take place, the most powerful being at the cremation ghat. At this spot, it hit me, in this present moment in time, we are either growing or we are dying.

Next morning, up and out early, with a final walk along the banks of the Ganges, walking up one of the 84 ghats into the multicoloured alleyways again trying to capture every colour, whilst listening to chimes, chanting and prayer, with the smell of rose incense lingering around the corners of each street, this is living.

Visiting the workshops to view the original craft of weaving, watching the artisans weave a silk sari, the colours were electric. Coming out of the workshop to see a local hanging the bulk threads of pure white silk just before it is dyed, all in the hidden backstreets of Benaras.

To eventually, find a tucked away coffee shop to sit and enjoy a real cappuccino (double shot of coffee please) to feel normal for a split second, the Beatles ‘Let It Be” was playing in the background, was a nice way to debrief as a group, and say “did those 36 hours really happen?” could India get any more beautiful, what an amazing way to finish this round the globe trip.

lots of love and light, Emma